Shobak

After pretty much traversing Jordan’s width and breadth – from Aqaba in the south to five miles from the Syrian border in the north and the Dead Sea in the west to As-Safawi in the east – there’s one place we keep returning to again and again: Shobak (sometimes spelled Shabak or Shawbak). Yes, the Dead Sea Highway is quite unique, the Eastern Desert magical, and Wadi Rum vast. But Shobak is...well...different. Kind of a high plains desert that captures all my favorite components of each major physiographic province in Jordan. Shobak is about a two-hour drive from Amman, along the Desert Highway and en route to Petra.

The town itself is best known for its castle. Built along the caravan/pilgrimage route between the Gulf of Aqaba and Syria by King Baldwin I in 1115 AD, it stood for several decades and repelled Saladin’s forces for two years later in that century. It’s also out of the way – you can’t see it from any main by-pass road as you can with other castles like Karak, Azraq, Kharanah, and Amra.

Facing east, overlooking Shobak Castle. The town of Shobak is just to the right of this image, on that high plateau. Some reconstruction has been done at this site, and excavations are on-going.

A partially-reconstructed dual-archer window, where two archers could shoot their arrows simultaneously.

Next to a tourist hotel (Hotel Montreal), the visitor’s center gives a nice overview of the castle, and is located on the edifice’s northwest side. Entrance to the castle itself is usually free, and you can drive right up to the main gate if you don’t mind a sketchy one-lane road on the side of a mountain with no guard rails. There’s always a tour guide eager to show you around and explain the castle’s fascinating history. For example: there are on-going excavations, special dual-archer windows, carved Kufic script, and secret tunnels (you can actually clamber down a dark tunnel and come out at the castle’s base!). The main merchant at the gate, Abu Marwan, is a friendly chap, eager to practice his English with you and help you with your Arabic. He also sells old Bedouin rugs (the best kind to have!)

Looking northeast from atop the castle. The geology in this region is all kinds of mess-up...in other words, really fascinating!

Surrounding the castle is amazing limestone geology, anticlines, synclines, twisted and squished rock layers, and caves. Dozens of caves. We like to approach the castle from the east, which gives you stunning views of only the castle as you round a corner. Plus, you get to drive past “The Smallest Hotel In The World” and Abu Ali’s shop. Abu Ali’s family has been in the area for generations, and still own several of the caves and property surrounding the castle. He’s also a gracious host who takes the term “delightful” to new heights. His wares are also pretty neat, and many come from local families in the village who have lost their jobs or fallen on hard times.

Abu Marwan wants to have a bunch of old cars like this converted to sleeping quarters. You can spend the night in this one for a few dinars if you ask. It is quite comfortable, even for two people!

Aside from Shobak castle, the municipality (think “county” in the US) also hosts a few other ruins and castles, abundant agriculture – they have Jordan’s BEST apples – such as olives, figs, grapes, and apricots, and a number of wadis/canyons known for excellent hiking. The views are also pretty spectacular. Although it looks rather dusty and bleak, each canyon contains hidden surprises awaiting the intrepid explorer. It’s also the highest municipality in the country in terms of elevation, and temperatures tend to be more mild, even in the hot summers. Think mountain town: Flagstaff for Phoenix peeps, Breckenridge for Denverites, and Park City for Salt Lake folks. Minus all those towns’ hubbub.

Abu Seksuki (the name they gave me) in traditional garb with Abu Ali (L) and Abu Marwan (R), in Abu Ali's main cave/shop along the road to Shobak.

But all this pales in comparison to the people we’ve met in Shobak. We’ve made some very solid friendships with Shobakians(?). A local family (now our good friends) has invited us several times for dinner – including an overnight that, unfortunately, we had to decline because we had research plans the next day. Each time, we left not just with (extra) full tummies, but with a full brain (there’s always great learning that takes place on both sides), and many more gifts than we brought to our gracious hosts. Each time, as soon as we leave, we want to immediately return. That’s the sign of a great place, I believe. If I moved full-time to Jordan, I would have a place in Amman, but probably live in Shobak.

Next time you’re poking around the area, stop in at the castle. Say salam to Abu Marwan and stop at Abu Ali’s shop for Bedouin tea and perhaps a browse-and-buy experience. And if you ask nicely, you may even get to spend a night in one of his caves…

Standing on the keystone of an ancient arch, atop Shobak Castle. This arch was not reconstructed. A tremendous historic engineering feat, and they are all over ruins in Jordan.